We were told by our camping neighbours last night that Purni
Bore (my favourite spot in the Simpson) has now been ruined. It has been roped
of like everything else that’s nice. I’m so disappointed!
The Pink Roadhouse was our first stop, and a must.
This is
the last fuel, water and food supply until Birdsville. We also emptied our
rubbish holders, bought a few bits and pieces and listened to an Aboriginal
busker. Michael and Madison gave him some money.
The Roadhouse is for sale. I think they should get Stuart to freshen up the paint job. The town is bigger than I
expected and lays claim to being the hottest and driest town in Australia.
Our turn off to the right towards Dalhousie is not far north
of here. The road was quite good, with our average speed about 70 to 80km/hr
from which you need to slow down for the occasional corrugated or sandy
patches. Ensure you also slow down for any cattle grids as they are “jumps”.
You can tell that you are closing in on the Simpson as you start to see the
occasional small dune.
After driving through a 7km claypan, the landscape dramatically
changes again to a gibber plain (stoney desert), broken up by several creek
beds. After another turn right onto a smaller track we pulled over at a creek
bed to collect firewood (before entering the National Park) where we were treated
to finding some gorgeous geckos.
It is a lot bumpier and rocky on this track with scenery of
expansive flat gibber country, red dirt, rocks and yellow grass, then crossing several
twisting, sandy creek beds. Our speed was about 50km/hr here, slowing further
for any obstacles.
Just before the thermal springs are the Dalhousie homestead
ruins. They certainly had gorgeous views of mesas from here, and palm trees in
their garden.
Everyone just adored their 1hr soak in Dalhousie Springs,
our natural day spa! It was so rejuvenating with natural minerals, 36 to 38°C artesian
water and the 3 to 4cm unique gobi fish that exfoliate your legs. 1hr about
pulls it up though as you become overheated (and sunburnt as you shouldn’t wear
any chemicals in to contaminate this water), the kids were especially sensitive
to the temperature, going quite red in the face.
After a quick lunch we continued on towards Purni Bore.
I always love stopping to let the tyres down, about halfway along where it starts to become sandy, as there are always good flowers here and I have plenty of time to play with the camera. There were my favourite Poached Egg Daisies, although they mostly seemed juveniles.
I was so sad about Purni. Last time we adored our camp site
on the edge of the lake. We pulled up a couple of swales east of Purni rather
than at the side of the road next to the new fence.
Everyone in the group seems upset with our camp site and
want to camp elsewhere due to bushes with prickles etc. Sorry but most of the
desert is exactly like this (you’ll all be in for a long week if you don’t like
this). At least from this spot, we’re not on the side of the road, we have our
privacy, not squished in with the crowds and still have access to the lake for bird
watching with a short desert hike. A 2 night stay is very much needed so
everyone can have a sleep in, a break from packing up and a chance to just
explore the desert and amazing wildlife that Purni supports.
I love the colours of the eastern sky at sunset, pinks and
purples with a giant moon.
Some of our collected firewood made for a beautiful warm and
social fire. Jack, Col and I saw an amazing shooting star. I should say
asteroid! An orange fire ball with a tail. Peter didn’t see it but heard the ‘woosh’.
Wow. I wonder if some of that landed on earth! Peter decided if it did, the
crater should be named “Jack’s Crack”!
Peter had another electrical problem today with the kid’s
12V outlets blowing.
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