Day 6, Tuesday 31/12/2013, Cradle Mountain to Hobart

The first fine day. Such a shame we can’t climb to the peak (with a 5hr+ drive to come) but so relieved to have fine weather for packing up camp. 

Our site of Col, Cheryl, Jordan, Jack and Jess all woke at 7am and were fed and packed by 8:30am. Not bad for tents and mattresses. I’m writing my diary and Jordan and Jess are having a shower while waiting for everyone else to finish. The aim was to leave by 9am. It’s now 10 minutes away. Not sure if that will happen. J
It turns out Morgans are heading on a different route today, so we could have left 30 minutes ago. Williams and Parkes are heading along the Highland Lakes Way (a few km’s of unsealed but smooth road) and Morgans are heading down the main highway. Beautiful mountain and lake scenery. I enjoyed our stops at a little boutique, Salmon and Ginseng Farm and a vineyard where we topped up with some yummy supplies. After getting fresh bread from the bakery we stopped at the lakes edge for fresh salmon sandwiches. 

We arrived at the caravan park North of Hobart, on the river at about 4pm with Morgans not far behind. Camped right on the river’s edge with 15 ducks swimming at our feet. Popped out a bottle of champagne and broke out the salmon pate and bikkies. 

We all caught the 7:10pm local bus into Hobart wharf to watch the fireworks. I couldn’t believe it took an hour. Still so far from Hobart.
First we grabbed some fish n chips and then sat on the end of Elizabeth Street Pier. I was desperately looking for Clyde’s boat but Lisa told me ‘Endeavour 2’. It’s ‘Venture 2’. I got his number off Phoebe but there was no answer. 

After watching the 9:30pm fireworks everyone jumped back on the bus for a 1hr trip back to camp. Couldn’t sleep anyway as kids in the camp enjoying New Year’s Eve were screaming and playing all night. I was so disappointed when Clyde phoned me at 11:30pm and said to bring my group onto the yacht for the midnight fireworks. Everyone was in bed and it was too far away. It would have been a perfect way to bring in the new year. L
He leaves at midday tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll be able to see him before that but it’s so difficult to move a group of 11 people in time for anything.

Day 5, Monday 30/12/2013, Cradle Mountain

The idea of kayaking today was canned with the consensus that it was too freezing (especially if you fell in the icy water) and no sandy entry for the kayaks. The day started at 4 degrees Celsius with a wind-chill factor of -5 degrees Celsius, alternating between rain and drizzle.
A lot of the morning was just spent hanging in the kitchen/fireplace, but then after becoming a bit stir crazy we decided to do a 6km boardwalk hike (Ronnie's), in the rain (adults plus Jack). Jordan and Jess took Eliza and Amara to the Rangers Hut/interpretation centre for a shorter walk and a look around, then back to the fire to play cards.

It was lovely to take Leah and Gary out for a break, but I’m not sure if they enjoyed hiking in the rain much. Other tourists were upset that the entire Cradle area was covered in cloud all day. The peak was not to be seen. While at the info centre we booked in for a Tasmanian Devil experience, picked up at 8:30pm from reception.

The afternoon was spent in my camp chair by the fire with my book and a coffee, then progressed to my bed for a nap and more reading. Col snuck in a bit of a nap as well. Jordan and Jack went and bought frozen pizzas which they cooked for us in the pizza oven in the kitchen. Nice.

First we got to pat the little Devil, very nervous creature, then watch them be fed. They make a cool sound screaming at each other. We also saw some spotted quolls. Very cute. They are fast and twitchy and remind me of squirrels. The bus tour then included driving along the road with spotlights. Bruce (“Fred”) up the front with the driver, spotting wallabies, pademelons and wombats. It’s amazing how many there are. And we spotted a Tassie Tiger, I have the photo to prove it (on Fiona’s camera as mine died. I think it’s my 18-200mm lens playing up, bugger).

Day 4, Sunday 29/12/2013, Cradle Mountain

It was a wild night! Less than 0 degrees celsius, colder with the wind chill factor. Blowing a gale and raining all night. The kid's tent leaked. Jack, Jordan and Jess had their mattresses floating in puddles. We dressed warm with jackets, raincoats and beanies. Williams and Parkes headed off to hike the summit, while Morgans headed out much later to do part of the Dove Lake walk.

After walking to the info centre we caught a bus partway up the mountain to Ronnie's creek boardwalk and did the Overland Track. We found a wombat near the start with a cute little baby. Jordan hiked out to get a photo while the rest of us called out that they are like Monty Python rabbits!

We hiked along Alpine grassland with Yakka trees along creeks, then headed up through rainforest and waterfalls. Very long steep incline. Could feel rhabdomyolysis happening (I have metabolic myopathy). Shouldn’t have brought my heavy camera backpack.

  

We came out at Crater Lake at a cute little cabin. It’s a small lake with a steep rock wall surrounding it, yet there were white caps. A howling gale and sleet. This was the first taste of our blizzard. Next was to hike up again to the rim surrounding this lake. We found an Asian man alone up there and he was nice enough to get a group photo over Dove Lake. Then it was up even further which included some chain assistance up steep rock to Mereen Lookout. From here you get a great (the first) view of Cradle Mountain. More photos with our new friend doing another group shot before heading back down. 

It was now a full blizzard with sleet and snow shooting horizontally. All beanies that had come off were well and truly back on and the hike across the ridge to Kitchen Hut (at the base of Cradle Mountain peaks) was a freezing, hypothermia battle with Jordan crying from aching hands (she had gloves on). I found this the most exciting part with clumps of snow everywhere. It was pretty wild for December (summer) in Australia. 

We gratefully huddled in the hut with 4 other hikers and had a break from the cold, thawing out a little and having snacks and drinks. It was way too cold and dangerous to do the peak. Strong winds, icy wet rock. Numb hands that didn’t work and mostly no visibility, so we walked the track level with the saddle of Cradle, then a steep decent to Wallace lake (also using the chain provided), then the walk along Dove Lake back to the carpark.

A very steep and cold 12km all up. I was stuffed. I had jelly legs and could barely make it back, lagging far behind everyone. Fiona was hanging back quite a bit though to chat about the scenery and keep me company which was lovely. Took my mind off how much I was struggling.
We found Morgans in the carpark and all caught the shuttle down together. My camera, which had stopped working, was ok again in the warm bus. I guess it was frozen. First was a hot shower and huge drink. Then a sandwich. Jordan put their linen in the dryer while Jack and I mopped out the tent. There was enough sun and wind to dry the mattress on the car. Then it was social hour and dinner in the warmth of the kitchen, complete with fireplace. It was an amazing and beautiful day. Not quite to the peak, but close enough and an entirely different summer experience. J
I had planned to take Jordan canyoning tomorrow as she was pretty keen (so was I, we were the only 2), but I’m wrecked after the mountain climb today (my muscles have died again) and Jordan can’t imagine jumping in icy water now that she froze on the mountain top. Next time!

Day 3, Saturday 28/12/2013, Devonport to Cradle Mountain.

An early start to the day with a wake up call over the intercom at 5:15am (Even the memory kills me a little inside – Jordan).  We had to be down in the car before 6am for departure. First we had a moment to capture a sunrise over Tasmania.

The Laneway café in Devonport was very quaint and arty farty and had delicious breakfasts. They even had gluten free toast for Amara.

Next was a quick grocery shop at Coles (the markets weren’t open). Col and I bought paddle ties from the canoe shop and Leah and Gary bought a gas bottle.

We all met at La Trobe at the Chocolate Factory

 I enjoyed tasting all of the fudge several times and concluded that cappuccino was my favourite. It sprinkled on and off but nothing that dampened the spirits. Next on the list was a cheese factory and then a raspberry farm. Jack bought a tub of strawberries and a jar of strawberry jam. Col a tub of raspberries and me some yoghurt with raspberries.

 It was a lovely stroll around the property which included a Monet pond with bridge and waterlilies. I almost got a photo of Leah, but it’s blurry as she was running to avoid it and I didn’t have it on ‘sport’ mode. (Next time).

Then it was a hilly/mountainy drive on narrow roads past rivers and ‘road kill’ to a town called (Kurri) Sheffield. It reminded me of Kurri in the age of the buildings, but it was much nicer with cute galleries and cafes. Col bought a drysabone vest, Jordan a long cardigan and we all had fun in the marble shop, especially Eliza and Amara. 

A fun spur of the moment stop was halfway from there to Cradle Mountain where we came upon the state wood chopping competition and watched the world champion chopping. Amazingly strong and fast, lots of excitement.

We’re now starting to see beautiful rocky peaks. After crossing a bit of a gorge and damned river we rise into Alpine Country with the familiar rocky territory with stunted shrubs and short spongy grass.
Our campsites at the Big 4 are near the entrance to the National Park. The sites are tiny little pockets in the bush. All separate and private with a kitchen/fireplace building and amenities block that are made from bush rock and blend the roof into the ground like a hobbit’s house. Beautiful. More amazing is the local wildlife. Either it’s a stunted wallaby or some marsupial wandering our site (turns out it’s a pademelon) and even better were the echidna and wombat wandering around when we went for a walk 20m up the road to info. So beautiful!! Fiona got some good photos. Then I found a very strange creature on the log behind our tent. About the size of Jordy, black and white stripes with a pink belly. 

The gas bottle Gary bought has a different connection so Col lent him one of ours. We all had tea together in the rock building with a fire blazing. One lady there had done the summit walk plus Lake Dove perimeter in 4hrs. She also said that snow was expected on the peaks tonight. With the change blowing over and the icy wind I’d believe it. It is now raining and only too dark to write at 9:15pm.
An early night to bed to keep warm. Jack has had a temperature this evening but has perked up after some Panadol. Eliza had one 2 days ago and Col a week ago!