Friday 23/7/2010 Alice Springs to Rainbow Valley

(Alice Springs to Rainbow Valley)
After a buffet breakfast at our motel, we checked out and headed to the dreamtime tour with mum and dad. It was absolutely nothing like advertised. I was expecting a whole community demonstrating their culture, bushtucker, doing a traditional dance (corroboree) in their traditional dress, and plenty of children for Jordan and Jack to meet. I was so disappointed. It was still OK but it was definitely false advertising!!
Instead there were only 5 Aboriginal women and one Aboriginal man there. They were sitting with a display of their paintings for sale.

Other than that we had an educational session from a caucasian man, damper and a cuppa. Then we tried some bush tucker, met the Aboriginal people and bought a painting for $100. Next were lessons and turns at throwing boomerangs.

Jordan and Jack have gone to the Desert Park with their grandma and grandad.
Col and I had jobs to do. First we stopped at a mechanics especially for Land Rovers as we had a couple of studs snapped off. The guy wouldn't be back till 1430hrs so we parked at Coles. Needing a toilet, we thought that Maccas was a good idea (and snuck in a bit of food).
With the groceries tended to we set off to find the camera shop (opposite Woolworths) and bought a shutter release cable for time lapse photography.
I then headed into the laundromat and did 2 loads of washing..drying..folding. I chatted to a girl from Estonia, had some police come in searching for someone and started the next Stieg Larsson book. I needed a rest. I can't stop coughing and feel like crap.
Col spoke to the mechanic and ended up just taking some studs to replace himself later. He then went to a camp store and bought a new billy and a baby camp oven to do dampers. He didn't get sand tracks as intended as he couldn't find any. I hope we don't regret this.
Got the kids back off mum and dad near the mall. sounds like they had fun with the kites (but they didn't have a wedgetailed eagle!). Bye mum and dad. It was great meeting up with you!! Will miss you!!
Although we were already checked out, we went back to our motel to fill up our water tank from the laundry tap.
Leaving for Rainbow Valley at 1730hrs.
We saw the sun setting along Stuart Highway instead of at Rainbow Valley. It was an easy dirt road in even in the dark. We used our spotlights. There were a lot of cattle on the road that wouldn't move until you almost touched them.
We arrived at 1910hrs to a completely packed area. A nice couple let us share their bay. Quickly put up the tents then were called away. The whole group and a ranger were waiting for us. Apparently there is a ranger talk every Friday night here and every Saturday night at Chambers Pillar.
Apparently it's the biggest wet out here since 1971. After a lovely talk and picture viewing of the unique environment and wildlife while sitting around a lovely big campfire, we decided on quick sandwiches and a cuppa for tea, then to bed to read.
There was still a bitterly cold wind, it was too late and I was too tired to cook.

Thursday 22/7/2010 Glen Helen to Alice Springs

(Glen Helen to Alice Springs)
Up at 0700hrs, ready by 0820hrs. A record!
Beautiful sunrise colours on Mount Sonder. A photographer's dream!

Off to Glen Helen to get some fuel and meet mum and dad.
Yay! Hugs all around... it feels funny to be running into peole all the way out here in the middle of Australia. Fancy our trips crossing over at Alice at the same time!!

It was lovely to have some extra company. You tend to feel a bit socially starved after a while.
Together we visited the scenic sites of Glen Helen Gorge, Ormiston Gorge,

Serpentine Gorge,

Ellery Creek Big Hole,

and Standley Chasm

...on our drive back in to Alice Springs.

It was a little overcast and windy to get perfect Gorge photos, but still beautiful regardless. Jordan had fun with her grandfather doing macro shots together.

We were booked into our motel by 1600hrs, had showers, edited photos and organised a mudmap to be faxed to the motel reception for our Aboriginal Dream Time tour tomorow.

Off to Ali and Han's house for dinner. Ali is Col's cousin. They have 2 daughters Allana 4yrs and Kiera 2yrs. We last saw Ali and Hans at their wedding here in 2002. Col's aunt and uncle, Chris and Trevor were also there and my parents Kay and Paul were invited.

Wow!! Boy did they go to an amazing effort! We were shocked at how much work they had gone to to put on dinner for us. It was amazing. I think there was enough food to feed several more families. It was delicious and we really appreciate the effort. So fantastic to see them again. Our outback family. We enjoyed a fantastic night listening to some funny and interesting stories.

Jordan and Jack had a great time bonding with their second cousins Allana and Kiera. Who were very sad to see us go.

Wednesday 21/7/2010 Finke River, near Glen Helen

(Finke River, near Glen Helen)
It is still overcast and cold and oh, the wind! If it wasn't for a full bladder at 0800hrs, I would have slept half the day.
Col had the busiest day, rotating the wheels on the car and constantly tending to the fire. I walked about 2km back to the road to ring mum from a payphone at Glen Helen. I needed to confirm that they were meeting us there tomorow. Yes, at 0930hrs. Yay!!
Other than that I spent the entire day curled up on my camp chair as close to the fire as possible. The wind was bitter. Scarf, beanie, fire and a good book all day, overlooking the Finke River and Mt Sonder.
Many birds came in the evening. Budgerigars, cockatiels, magpies, piwis and a wedgetailed eagle.
Jordan and Jack had fun climbing trees, playing forts and floating things down the river.
I can't wait to see mum and dad tomorow!
Back to my book by the fire.

Tuesday 20/7/2010 Palm Valley to Glen Helen

(Palm Valley to Glen Helen)
10,000 year old cabbage palms and cycads galour, 4km further into the valley. Wow! Talk about paradise. They are now the only natural palms growing in the red centre.

We passed our Kings Creek neighbours on our way back out the valley. He was very chatty. How excited is Jordan!! She got to drive across the Finke River. Wonderfully exciting first lessons she is having.

We had our usual tea and scones (massive) at Hermansberg and checked out the art gallery and museum.

There was a beautiful Sturt Desert Pea, and a lovely Aboriginal boy playing on the old tractor, chatting to Jordan and I.

From here we went to Gosse Bluff, a massive crater formed from a comet hit over 50 million years ago.

I was in shock when we arrived at Redbank Gorge camp ground. A gravelly hill with tiny allocated squares, nowhere near the water. For 2 nights? No thanks.
Continue on to our trusty bush camp on the Finke River opposite (north of) Glen Helen. There were a few other campers here this time, but spread out over 3km of river bank.
My sinus infection has gone to my chest. Thank goodness for my 1st aid kit. Col is just about 100% well now.
It is a beautiful sunset. It is becoming overcast, cold and windy. Thank goodness for our fire! We are here for 2 nights. Leisure, relaxation day tomorow.

Sunday 18/7/2010 Kings Creek Station to Finke Gorge

(Kings Creek Station to Finke Gorge)
Got up at 0715hrs, had our last shower for 4 nights and left by 0900hrs for an adventurous day of 4WD. Jordan jumped out and gave Leroy her email address so he could let her know what the propery owners think of her video.
We're off to Boggy Hole in the Finke Gorge for 2 nights. Back to 4WDing yay!
We headed east on Ernest Giles Rd. There was a 2WD van in front of us that soon turned around. I think it would usually have been fine for 2WDs but not with the huge amount of rain recently. Very corrugated and muddy with lots of washaways and water across the track. Further in they are remaking some of the road.
There have been almost 10 flocks of doves. We turn left soon for some real 4WDing up the Finke Gorge.
We almost didn't see the turnoff. Just two wheel tracks heading off into the grass. It gets a bit rough along here and there are plenty of sandy creek beds to cross.

There was a creek to cross at 1215hrs that was just gorgeous, so we stopped there for lunch. There was plenty of water in the creek and gum trees all along the banks. So many green budgies. There must have been about 50. It was almost deafening. So much water... and this is a creek!!

When we reached the Finke River, it felt like we were at a wild, remote version of Glen Helen, with the Finke River and striking orange cliffs.
Oh my goodness..... so much water in the Finke River!!!
I waded across first to see if we could drive it. Pretty funny when I fell in. It was drivable, but I had to show Col where there were some deep holes to avoid. OMG what a scary crossing! He couldn't quite turn sharp enough and half went into one of the deep holes, floating to the right and then crashing into a large rock that he eventually made it around on his third attempt. The back of the driver's side was floating, and the front hitting a rock. Thank goodness he forced himself half over/ half around it before stalling or being washed downstream. Jack took a great video of the entire thing.

This is the second crossing...

This is the third crossing...

The whole gorge is fantastic! This has been my favourite so far. Wow!

Notice the mud flap strapped to the front of the car.
We did a total of 3 big river crossings, then at the 4th (only 4km short of our goal) it was far too deep and fast to get across, so we had to make the decision to turn back. So... 3 big crossings again back the other way! Scary but fun.
We camped on the SW side of the Finke River just past the first crossing.

Absolutely gorgeous!! We still haven't seen Boggy Hole, so I guess we'll have to come back when there is less water (?2 yrs).

A beautiful, peaceful campsite. Relaxing around the fire in true wilderness.
Revised plan: Head back to Kings Canyon and go north via Mereenie Loop to Palm Valley then on to Redbank Gorge.
BBQ rissoles, eggs, mashed potato, beans and carrots for tea. Jordan made the fire tonight. Jack explored the river and put markers out to see if the water level changes overnight.
An exhausting but exciting day. Col had fun watching the video clips of the river crossings.

Saturday 17/7/2010 Kings Creek Station

(Kings Creek Station)
The bushman's brekkie was served at 0730hrs. It was pretty upsetting to find out at breakfast from the pilot that we wouldn't be able to do our helicopter flight as it had been grounded until after an engineer check. Bugger!! Poor Jordan and Jack had saved up their own money especially for it.

Our 1hr camel ride started at 0830hrs. This was also disappointing for me as we were just lead around the property rather than all going on a real trek (ie Leroy walked in front instead of also riding a camel). The kids loved it though.
Leroy was a lovely man. He seemed quite interested in our travels and called us the Leyland Family. He said we should be making a documentary. I told him we were making books and taking plenty of film clips which Jordan will have to teach me to piece together. He was quite interested in this as he had quite a few video clips of camels which he wished to join together to make a film for his nightly show.

Col was feeling sick today and is now on antibiotics for a chest infection (I have a great first aid kit). He spent most of the day resting or sleeping. So while Col and Jack rested, Jordan and I went and offered to do this little project for Leroy (I was Jordan's assistant).

Jordan made a great little film from Leroy's film clips, using the music he chose and of course some of our photos and videos. It was finished off with some bloopers of funny camel faces and Leroy being thrown from a camel over and over.
It was a great little film and Leroy was so excited. He invited us to his show tonight as VIP guests for the movie premiere, and mentioned us in his show. Jordan was then called away, and made a big entrance on the back of a quad bike, introduced to the audience and her film played. I think Leroy liked it. It certainly got plenty of laughs and lots of applause from the audience.
Everyone then congregated around the campfire for billy tea and damper while Leroy entertained us with whips, stories and a terrific poem he wrote that sums up the outback perfectly.
He gave Jordan his email address and hoped she would drop him a line.

Thursday 15/7/2010 Yulara

(Yulara)
Slept in!!!! No tent to pack up!

Soak in the bath, out for lunch, grocery shopping, clothes washing and catching up with diaries and communication. The kids even had a swim in the heated pool. Col checked the car out. All seems fine.

Wednesday 14/7/2010 Docker River to Yulara

(Docker River to Yulara)
There were dingos howling overnight and the temperature again dropped to at least 0 C, with ice on our tents. Off to Yulara today (town near Uluru). With an extra night up our sleeves we've decided to stay in a powered site there for 2 nights to do some jobs (washing, bathing, shopping and diaries).
Driving along the kids were discussing their future career choices with us ...aahh family bonding. Saw more camels. One ran onto the road and jogged along in front of us for a bit.
Missed the turn off to Lasseter's Cave at first as it is only signed as a rest stop.

This viewing sent us off on more history lessons. Jordan and Jack are now keen to read his diary and work out where the reef of gold is. Well they've learnt about ancient maps and offroad exploration and will soon be learning to be cameleers at King's Creek Station. So there is hope!
Lasseter's Cave is amongst a beautiful mountain range overlooking a river bed, so he spent his last days living in beautiful scenery.
This was followed by a history lesson on Giles and Gibson's explorations.
Seeing, galahs, budgies, magpies and crows.

At Kata Tjuta we did the 7.4km hike through the domes. It took 1hr and 50mins at a fast pace (1200hrs-1350hrs).

It was great exercise after so much sitting, and just beautiful. They are huge.
Uluru looked purple and pink as we headed east to it.

All 4 of us climbed it to see spectacular views. Jack was very nervous, but pleased with his accomplishment afterwards. You couldn't get more respect and love for the rock than we had. We passed 2 Aboriginal girls near the top.

Huge day!!! Lots of exertion. Ended up deciding to lash out and have a couple of nights luxury for everyone to recouperate for the next part of our adventures.
5 Star Sails in the Desert.
I feel soooo clean now!