Tuesday 27/7/2010 Purnie Bore to the Lone Gum Tree

(Purnie Bore to the Lone Gum Tree)
All slept in till 0830hrs. Awoke to sunshine and an orchestra of bird sounds. Wow, amazing sound! It's the warmest day yet. We are wearing T-shirts and shorts, and the flies are thick.
The kids played on the dune again while I had that shower. It took a full 35 minutes for the hot water to get there!! Lovely once it did.
Well we didn't leave untill 1100hrs. Big mistake! Got to the Lone Gum Tree at 1830hrs. It was a long day. Up down, up down, up down. Absolutely beautiful though. So many flowers and much greener than we expected. No plain red dunes, but plenty of partial ones for pretty photos.

The dunes started off small, at about 5m along the French Line.

The signage was very good. It would be hard to get lost if you stick to the tracks out here.

We headed south along the Rig Road and had lunch in the swale before heading east along the WAA Line.

The swales were pretty big on the WAA line, especially just west of the Erabena Track (about 20 to 30m).

It was much wilder in there. About 3 of the swales had water across them and we had to make our own way around.

Then there was another smaller puddle on the track that looked OK, but we sank and got bogged. Col had to dig and use low range to get out. I think we should have been playing with diff lock sooner. We didn't use it at all until after we were home from this trip.

We learnt our lesson. Deffinitely stay in the well used ruts, even if the water is deeper. The mud is compacted rather than like quicksand if you veer off. It's either the main track or a much larger diversion. Our next step would have been using our fire wood to cover the mud behind us, but luckily we didn't need to.

Had to add a bit of drama to the day!
We only passed 2 groups today. First was a single man in a single vehicle. Col and Jordan new him from the Kalgoorlie car park!
Next were a group of 4 cars. One of them had a 5yr old, a 2yr old and a newborn (very brave)!
This group had been stuck in Innamincka for 2 days with a broken chassey. The mechanic kept puting them off so they borrowed a welder and reinforced it themselves.
We won't be able to continue along the WAA Line east of Erabena, as it is covered by a lake at the other end according to this group.
Everyone updates each other as they pass, learning from each other's stories. It's also quite entertaining.
The final trip south to the Lone Gum Tree was in the dark. It didn't take long as travelling south is flat in the swales.
Our average speeds today were about 15km/hr most of the way (while heading east) and getting up to 50km/hr (when heading south) in the swales. I had fun driving some of the French Line and Rig Road, but the WAA Line was the most impressive.
There were so many white wild flowers mostly topping the dunes, while the yellow flowers seem to cover the east walls of the dunes.
It was a quick setup, tea and dishes, then relax around the campfire with a glass of wine. The full moon came up at 1910hrs, huge and orange.
There is one other family camped here, about 100m away. They have little kids and went to bed early, so we didn't try to socialise.There was no wind and it wasn't cold. Col, Jordan and Jack all went to bed early but I enjoyed reading by the fire for quite some time.

Friday 23/7/2010 Alice Springs to Rainbow Valley

(Alice Springs to Rainbow Valley)
After a buffet breakfast at our motel, we checked out and headed to the dreamtime tour with mum and dad. It was absolutely nothing like advertised. I was expecting a whole community demonstrating their culture, bushtucker, doing a traditional dance (corroboree) in their traditional dress, and plenty of children for Jordan and Jack to meet. I was so disappointed. It was still OK but it was definitely false advertising!!
Instead there were only 5 Aboriginal women and one Aboriginal man there. They were sitting with a display of their paintings for sale.

Other than that we had an educational session from a caucasian man, damper and a cuppa. Then we tried some bush tucker, met the Aboriginal people and bought a painting for $100. Next were lessons and turns at throwing boomerangs.

Jordan and Jack have gone to the Desert Park with their grandma and grandad.
Col and I had jobs to do. First we stopped at a mechanics especially for Land Rovers as we had a couple of studs snapped off. The guy wouldn't be back till 1430hrs so we parked at Coles. Needing a toilet, we thought that Maccas was a good idea (and snuck in a bit of food).
With the groceries tended to we set off to find the camera shop (opposite Woolworths) and bought a shutter release cable for time lapse photography.
I then headed into the laundromat and did 2 loads of washing..drying..folding. I chatted to a girl from Estonia, had some police come in searching for someone and started the next Stieg Larsson book. I needed a rest. I can't stop coughing and feel like crap.
Col spoke to the mechanic and ended up just taking some studs to replace himself later. He then went to a camp store and bought a new billy and a baby camp oven to do dampers. He didn't get sand tracks as intended as he couldn't find any. I hope we don't regret this.
Got the kids back off mum and dad near the mall. sounds like they had fun with the kites (but they didn't have a wedgetailed eagle!). Bye mum and dad. It was great meeting up with you!! Will miss you!!
Although we were already checked out, we went back to our motel to fill up our water tank from the laundry tap.
Leaving for Rainbow Valley at 1730hrs.
We saw the sun setting along Stuart Highway instead of at Rainbow Valley. It was an easy dirt road in even in the dark. We used our spotlights. There were a lot of cattle on the road that wouldn't move until you almost touched them.
We arrived at 1910hrs to a completely packed area. A nice couple let us share their bay. Quickly put up the tents then were called away. The whole group and a ranger were waiting for us. Apparently there is a ranger talk every Friday night here and every Saturday night at Chambers Pillar.
Apparently it's the biggest wet out here since 1971. After a lovely talk and picture viewing of the unique environment and wildlife while sitting around a lovely big campfire, we decided on quick sandwiches and a cuppa for tea, then to bed to read.
There was still a bitterly cold wind, it was too late and I was too tired to cook.

Thursday 22/7/2010 Glen Helen to Alice Springs

(Glen Helen to Alice Springs)
Up at 0700hrs, ready by 0820hrs. A record!
Beautiful sunrise colours on Mount Sonder. A photographer's dream!

Off to Glen Helen to get some fuel and meet mum and dad.
Yay! Hugs all around... it feels funny to be running into peole all the way out here in the middle of Australia. Fancy our trips crossing over at Alice at the same time!!

It was lovely to have some extra company. You tend to feel a bit socially starved after a while.
Together we visited the scenic sites of Glen Helen Gorge, Ormiston Gorge,

Serpentine Gorge,

Ellery Creek Big Hole,

and Standley Chasm

...on our drive back in to Alice Springs.

It was a little overcast and windy to get perfect Gorge photos, but still beautiful regardless. Jordan had fun with her grandfather doing macro shots together.

We were booked into our motel by 1600hrs, had showers, edited photos and organised a mudmap to be faxed to the motel reception for our Aboriginal Dream Time tour tomorow.

Off to Ali and Han's house for dinner. Ali is Col's cousin. They have 2 daughters Allana 4yrs and Kiera 2yrs. We last saw Ali and Hans at their wedding here in 2002. Col's aunt and uncle, Chris and Trevor were also there and my parents Kay and Paul were invited.

Wow!! Boy did they go to an amazing effort! We were shocked at how much work they had gone to to put on dinner for us. It was amazing. I think there was enough food to feed several more families. It was delicious and we really appreciate the effort. So fantastic to see them again. Our outback family. We enjoyed a fantastic night listening to some funny and interesting stories.

Jordan and Jack had a great time bonding with their second cousins Allana and Kiera. Who were very sad to see us go.

Wednesday 21/7/2010 Finke River, near Glen Helen

(Finke River, near Glen Helen)
It is still overcast and cold and oh, the wind! If it wasn't for a full bladder at 0800hrs, I would have slept half the day.
Col had the busiest day, rotating the wheels on the car and constantly tending to the fire. I walked about 2km back to the road to ring mum from a payphone at Glen Helen. I needed to confirm that they were meeting us there tomorow. Yes, at 0930hrs. Yay!!
Other than that I spent the entire day curled up on my camp chair as close to the fire as possible. The wind was bitter. Scarf, beanie, fire and a good book all day, overlooking the Finke River and Mt Sonder.
Many birds came in the evening. Budgerigars, cockatiels, magpies, piwis and a wedgetailed eagle.
Jordan and Jack had fun climbing trees, playing forts and floating things down the river.
I can't wait to see mum and dad tomorow!
Back to my book by the fire.

Tuesday 20/7/2010 Palm Valley to Glen Helen

(Palm Valley to Glen Helen)
10,000 year old cabbage palms and cycads galour, 4km further into the valley. Wow! Talk about paradise. They are now the only natural palms growing in the red centre.

We passed our Kings Creek neighbours on our way back out the valley. He was very chatty. How excited is Jordan!! She got to drive across the Finke River. Wonderfully exciting first lessons she is having.

We had our usual tea and scones (massive) at Hermansberg and checked out the art gallery and museum.

There was a beautiful Sturt Desert Pea, and a lovely Aboriginal boy playing on the old tractor, chatting to Jordan and I.

From here we went to Gosse Bluff, a massive crater formed from a comet hit over 50 million years ago.

I was in shock when we arrived at Redbank Gorge camp ground. A gravelly hill with tiny allocated squares, nowhere near the water. For 2 nights? No thanks.
Continue on to our trusty bush camp on the Finke River opposite (north of) Glen Helen. There were a few other campers here this time, but spread out over 3km of river bank.
My sinus infection has gone to my chest. Thank goodness for my 1st aid kit. Col is just about 100% well now.
It is a beautiful sunset. It is becoming overcast, cold and windy. Thank goodness for our fire! We are here for 2 nights. Leisure, relaxation day tomorow.

Monday 19/7/2010 Finke Gorge to Palm Valley

(Finke Gorge to Palm Valley)
It was a mild night. I'm now sick with a sinus infection. Col and I are both on antibiotics, which are working well for him, he's almost better.
We're heading to Palm Valley via Kings Canyon and Mereenie Loop. Revisiting old tracks (we did Mereenie Loop in 2002). We have to get a permit from the service station.
Just saw 3 wild donkeys.

Change of plan again. Now we plan to head east instead and follow the Hugh River through Owen Reserve and attempt to get to Palm Valley tonight. We sent texts of our new route via HF radio.
Met another Landy on our way out of Finke Valley. He had the same plan as us. Told him our story and that you can't get through (single man with 3 young boys, on their own, towing a trailer, I don't think so), but worth the drive to the river. He plans to camp where we did and then do the same detour.

Stopped at Henbury meteor craters then Dinky the dingo played the piano and sang for us while eating lunch at Stuart's Well (a little bonus).
Owen Springs Rd is closed as the Hugh River is not passable. At least there is a sign this time. Around to Palm Valley via Alice. It turned into a long day on tar.

Dingo Boy (Jack) strikes again, spotting 2 dingos on Larapinta Drive. We should make it to Palm Valley.

I rang the tourism desk while we had signal near Alice. "Road open to Palm Valley, but Finke Gorge impassable" (we know).

It's a beautiful drive into Palm Valley, driving along the river bed (ie in water) in parts. It is nowhere near as deep as the south end of the gorge. There are 5 other campers here. Natural beauty, but not remote like the southern end of the gorge. There were gas BBQs, flush toilets and "hot" showers, although I heard from another lady that they weren't very warm. (I had a "swim" in the Finke River yesterday anyway). The kids are playing around, climbing trees and interviewing each other on video.

There is so much water around. The riverbed drive into the gorge is usually on dry riverbed. The gorge walls are amazing, orange, jagged shapes. We go further in and explore near the palms tomorow.
So far we think we've spent about $1,168 on fuel, and driven 6,863km in 18 days (a long way).
Had a lovely chat with 2 other groups of campers around a communal fire. One family with twin 3 year old boys, just started a 6 month trip.

Sunday 18/7/2010 Kings Creek Station to Finke Gorge

(Kings Creek Station to Finke Gorge)
Got up at 0715hrs, had our last shower for 4 nights and left by 0900hrs for an adventurous day of 4WD. Jordan jumped out and gave Leroy her email address so he could let her know what the propery owners think of her video.
We're off to Boggy Hole in the Finke Gorge for 2 nights. Back to 4WDing yay!
We headed east on Ernest Giles Rd. There was a 2WD van in front of us that soon turned around. I think it would usually have been fine for 2WDs but not with the huge amount of rain recently. Very corrugated and muddy with lots of washaways and water across the track. Further in they are remaking some of the road.
There have been almost 10 flocks of doves. We turn left soon for some real 4WDing up the Finke Gorge.
We almost didn't see the turnoff. Just two wheel tracks heading off into the grass. It gets a bit rough along here and there are plenty of sandy creek beds to cross.

There was a creek to cross at 1215hrs that was just gorgeous, so we stopped there for lunch. There was plenty of water in the creek and gum trees all along the banks. So many green budgies. There must have been about 50. It was almost deafening. So much water... and this is a creek!!

When we reached the Finke River, it felt like we were at a wild, remote version of Glen Helen, with the Finke River and striking orange cliffs.
Oh my goodness..... so much water in the Finke River!!!
I waded across first to see if we could drive it. Pretty funny when I fell in. It was drivable, but I had to show Col where there were some deep holes to avoid. OMG what a scary crossing! He couldn't quite turn sharp enough and half went into one of the deep holes, floating to the right and then crashing into a large rock that he eventually made it around on his third attempt. The back of the driver's side was floating, and the front hitting a rock. Thank goodness he forced himself half over/ half around it before stalling or being washed downstream. Jack took a great video of the entire thing.

This is the second crossing...

This is the third crossing...

The whole gorge is fantastic! This has been my favourite so far. Wow!

Notice the mud flap strapped to the front of the car.
We did a total of 3 big river crossings, then at the 4th (only 4km short of our goal) it was far too deep and fast to get across, so we had to make the decision to turn back. So... 3 big crossings again back the other way! Scary but fun.
We camped on the SW side of the Finke River just past the first crossing.

Absolutely gorgeous!! We still haven't seen Boggy Hole, so I guess we'll have to come back when there is less water (?2 yrs).

A beautiful, peaceful campsite. Relaxing around the fire in true wilderness.
Revised plan: Head back to Kings Canyon and go north via Mereenie Loop to Palm Valley then on to Redbank Gorge.
BBQ rissoles, eggs, mashed potato, beans and carrots for tea. Jordan made the fire tonight. Jack explored the river and put markers out to see if the water level changes overnight.
An exhausting but exciting day. Col had fun watching the video clips of the river crossings.