Wednesday 21/7/2010 Finke River, near Glen Helen

(Finke River, near Glen Helen)
It is still overcast and cold and oh, the wind! If it wasn't for a full bladder at 0800hrs, I would have slept half the day.
Col had the busiest day, rotating the wheels on the car and constantly tending to the fire. I walked about 2km back to the road to ring mum from a payphone at Glen Helen. I needed to confirm that they were meeting us there tomorow. Yes, at 0930hrs. Yay!!
Other than that I spent the entire day curled up on my camp chair as close to the fire as possible. The wind was bitter. Scarf, beanie, fire and a good book all day, overlooking the Finke River and Mt Sonder.
Many birds came in the evening. Budgerigars, cockatiels, magpies, piwis and a wedgetailed eagle.
Jordan and Jack had fun climbing trees, playing forts and floating things down the river.
I can't wait to see mum and dad tomorow!
Back to my book by the fire.

Tuesday 20/7/2010 Palm Valley to Glen Helen

(Palm Valley to Glen Helen)
10,000 year old cabbage palms and cycads galour, 4km further into the valley. Wow! Talk about paradise. They are now the only natural palms growing in the red centre.

We passed our Kings Creek neighbours on our way back out the valley. He was very chatty. How excited is Jordan!! She got to drive across the Finke River. Wonderfully exciting first lessons she is having.

We had our usual tea and scones (massive) at Hermansberg and checked out the art gallery and museum.

There was a beautiful Sturt Desert Pea, and a lovely Aboriginal boy playing on the old tractor, chatting to Jordan and I.

From here we went to Gosse Bluff, a massive crater formed from a comet hit over 50 million years ago.

I was in shock when we arrived at Redbank Gorge camp ground. A gravelly hill with tiny allocated squares, nowhere near the water. For 2 nights? No thanks.
Continue on to our trusty bush camp on the Finke River opposite (north of) Glen Helen. There were a few other campers here this time, but spread out over 3km of river bank.
My sinus infection has gone to my chest. Thank goodness for my 1st aid kit. Col is just about 100% well now.
It is a beautiful sunset. It is becoming overcast, cold and windy. Thank goodness for our fire! We are here for 2 nights. Leisure, relaxation day tomorow.

Monday 19/7/2010 Finke Gorge to Palm Valley

(Finke Gorge to Palm Valley)
It was a mild night. I'm now sick with a sinus infection. Col and I are both on antibiotics, which are working well for him, he's almost better.
We're heading to Palm Valley via Kings Canyon and Mereenie Loop. Revisiting old tracks (we did Mereenie Loop in 2002). We have to get a permit from the service station.
Just saw 3 wild donkeys.

Change of plan again. Now we plan to head east instead and follow the Hugh River through Owen Reserve and attempt to get to Palm Valley tonight. We sent texts of our new route via HF radio.
Met another Landy on our way out of Finke Valley. He had the same plan as us. Told him our story and that you can't get through (single man with 3 young boys, on their own, towing a trailer, I don't think so), but worth the drive to the river. He plans to camp where we did and then do the same detour.

Stopped at Henbury meteor craters then Dinky the dingo played the piano and sang for us while eating lunch at Stuart's Well (a little bonus).
Owen Springs Rd is closed as the Hugh River is not passable. At least there is a sign this time. Around to Palm Valley via Alice. It turned into a long day on tar.

Dingo Boy (Jack) strikes again, spotting 2 dingos on Larapinta Drive. We should make it to Palm Valley.

I rang the tourism desk while we had signal near Alice. "Road open to Palm Valley, but Finke Gorge impassable" (we know).

It's a beautiful drive into Palm Valley, driving along the river bed (ie in water) in parts. It is nowhere near as deep as the south end of the gorge. There are 5 other campers here. Natural beauty, but not remote like the southern end of the gorge. There were gas BBQs, flush toilets and "hot" showers, although I heard from another lady that they weren't very warm. (I had a "swim" in the Finke River yesterday anyway). The kids are playing around, climbing trees and interviewing each other on video.

There is so much water around. The riverbed drive into the gorge is usually on dry riverbed. The gorge walls are amazing, orange, jagged shapes. We go further in and explore near the palms tomorow.
So far we think we've spent about $1,168 on fuel, and driven 6,863km in 18 days (a long way).
Had a lovely chat with 2 other groups of campers around a communal fire. One family with twin 3 year old boys, just started a 6 month trip.

Sunday 18/7/2010 Kings Creek Station to Finke Gorge

(Kings Creek Station to Finke Gorge)
Got up at 0715hrs, had our last shower for 4 nights and left by 0900hrs for an adventurous day of 4WD. Jordan jumped out and gave Leroy her email address so he could let her know what the propery owners think of her video.
We're off to Boggy Hole in the Finke Gorge for 2 nights. Back to 4WDing yay!
We headed east on Ernest Giles Rd. There was a 2WD van in front of us that soon turned around. I think it would usually have been fine for 2WDs but not with the huge amount of rain recently. Very corrugated and muddy with lots of washaways and water across the track. Further in they are remaking some of the road.
There have been almost 10 flocks of doves. We turn left soon for some real 4WDing up the Finke Gorge.
We almost didn't see the turnoff. Just two wheel tracks heading off into the grass. It gets a bit rough along here and there are plenty of sandy creek beds to cross.

There was a creek to cross at 1215hrs that was just gorgeous, so we stopped there for lunch. There was plenty of water in the creek and gum trees all along the banks. So many green budgies. There must have been about 50. It was almost deafening. So much water... and this is a creek!!

When we reached the Finke River, it felt like we were at a wild, remote version of Glen Helen, with the Finke River and striking orange cliffs.
Oh my goodness..... so much water in the Finke River!!!
I waded across first to see if we could drive it. Pretty funny when I fell in. It was drivable, but I had to show Col where there were some deep holes to avoid. OMG what a scary crossing! He couldn't quite turn sharp enough and half went into one of the deep holes, floating to the right and then crashing into a large rock that he eventually made it around on his third attempt. The back of the driver's side was floating, and the front hitting a rock. Thank goodness he forced himself half over/ half around it before stalling or being washed downstream. Jack took a great video of the entire thing.

This is the second crossing...

This is the third crossing...

The whole gorge is fantastic! This has been my favourite so far. Wow!

Notice the mud flap strapped to the front of the car.
We did a total of 3 big river crossings, then at the 4th (only 4km short of our goal) it was far too deep and fast to get across, so we had to make the decision to turn back. So... 3 big crossings again back the other way! Scary but fun.
We camped on the SW side of the Finke River just past the first crossing.

Absolutely gorgeous!! We still haven't seen Boggy Hole, so I guess we'll have to come back when there is less water (?2 yrs).

A beautiful, peaceful campsite. Relaxing around the fire in true wilderness.
Revised plan: Head back to Kings Canyon and go north via Mereenie Loop to Palm Valley then on to Redbank Gorge.
BBQ rissoles, eggs, mashed potato, beans and carrots for tea. Jordan made the fire tonight. Jack explored the river and put markers out to see if the water level changes overnight.
An exhausting but exciting day. Col had fun watching the video clips of the river crossings.

Saturday 17/7/2010 Kings Creek Station

(Kings Creek Station)
The bushman's brekkie was served at 0730hrs. It was pretty upsetting to find out at breakfast from the pilot that we wouldn't be able to do our helicopter flight as it had been grounded until after an engineer check. Bugger!! Poor Jordan and Jack had saved up their own money especially for it.

Our 1hr camel ride started at 0830hrs. This was also disappointing for me as we were just lead around the property rather than all going on a real trek (ie Leroy walked in front instead of also riding a camel). The kids loved it though.
Leroy was a lovely man. He seemed quite interested in our travels and called us the Leyland Family. He said we should be making a documentary. I told him we were making books and taking plenty of film clips which Jordan will have to teach me to piece together. He was quite interested in this as he had quite a few video clips of camels which he wished to join together to make a film for his nightly show.

Col was feeling sick today and is now on antibiotics for a chest infection (I have a great first aid kit). He spent most of the day resting or sleeping. So while Col and Jack rested, Jordan and I went and offered to do this little project for Leroy (I was Jordan's assistant).

Jordan made a great little film from Leroy's film clips, using the music he chose and of course some of our photos and videos. It was finished off with some bloopers of funny camel faces and Leroy being thrown from a camel over and over.
It was a great little film and Leroy was so excited. He invited us to his show tonight as VIP guests for the movie premiere, and mentioned us in his show. Jordan was then called away, and made a big entrance on the back of a quad bike, introduced to the audience and her film played. I think Leroy liked it. It certainly got plenty of laughs and lots of applause from the audience.
Everyone then congregated around the campfire for billy tea and damper while Leroy entertained us with whips, stories and a terrific poem he wrote that sums up the outback perfectly.
He gave Jordan his email address and hoped she would drop him a line.

Friday 16/7/2010 Yulara to Kings Creek Station

(Yulara to Kings Creek Station)
Huge buffet breakfast. Filled the car up, 137 L, ($1.61/L). Left at 0845hrs to Kings Canyon. Jordan and Jack are both asleep. I am reading interesting stats, and info on Uluru and Kata Tjuta on history, geology, environment, flora, fauna, astrology and tourism. The kids will have to read it later.
Uluru is 348m high and 3.6km long. Kata Tjuta has 36 domes and is 546m high.
Yulara is the 4th largest town (population) in NT!
Cool! Little Thorny Devils can drink by standing in puddles. Water travels up their legs by capillary action to the corners of their mouth.
Time to do the King's Canyon rim walk.

The 6km rim walk at Kings Canyon took 2 hrs, 1240hrs to 1440hrs. A lot more water this time. Bad timing though. There were 2 huge tour groups we had to get past. Jordan kept sprouting interesting facts from her earlier reading.

Jack again spotted a dingo on our way to Kings Creek Station, "Dingo Boy". After setting up camp we checked on our breakfast and camel riding booking for 0700hrs tomorow, and also booked in for a helicopter flight, which the kids saved up their own money for.

Col and I had a shower, while Jordan and Jack went and bought an icecream for everyone.
Col changed the fuses in his power box which were all blown by a loose wire in the tyre pressure sensor plug (secondary to the corrugations). He fixed the loose wire and taped it up.
We have a couple of meals left over now, from eating at Norseman pub, and at Sails in the Desert. Tonight we'll have the precooked beef stroganoff and tomorow the tuna mornay. Yum.
I was just downloading and editing todays photos when the computer died. I wish I had a powered site. There is no internet here.
Time to relax with a glass of wine and my Steig Larsson book.

Thursday 15/7/2010 Yulara

(Yulara)
Slept in!!!! No tent to pack up!

Soak in the bath, out for lunch, grocery shopping, clothes washing and catching up with diaries and communication. The kids even had a swim in the heated pool. Col checked the car out. All seems fine.

Wednesday 14/7/2010 Docker River to Yulara

(Docker River to Yulara)
There were dingos howling overnight and the temperature again dropped to at least 0 C, with ice on our tents. Off to Yulara today (town near Uluru). With an extra night up our sleeves we've decided to stay in a powered site there for 2 nights to do some jobs (washing, bathing, shopping and diaries).
Driving along the kids were discussing their future career choices with us ...aahh family bonding. Saw more camels. One ran onto the road and jogged along in front of us for a bit.
Missed the turn off to Lasseter's Cave at first as it is only signed as a rest stop.

This viewing sent us off on more history lessons. Jordan and Jack are now keen to read his diary and work out where the reef of gold is. Well they've learnt about ancient maps and offroad exploration and will soon be learning to be cameleers at King's Creek Station. So there is hope!
Lasseter's Cave is amongst a beautiful mountain range overlooking a river bed, so he spent his last days living in beautiful scenery.
This was followed by a history lesson on Giles and Gibson's explorations.
Seeing, galahs, budgies, magpies and crows.

At Kata Tjuta we did the 7.4km hike through the domes. It took 1hr and 50mins at a fast pace (1200hrs-1350hrs).

It was great exercise after so much sitting, and just beautiful. They are huge.
Uluru looked purple and pink as we headed east to it.

All 4 of us climbed it to see spectacular views. Jack was very nervous, but pleased with his accomplishment afterwards. You couldn't get more respect and love for the rock than we had. We passed 2 Aboriginal girls near the top.

Huge day!!! Lots of exertion. Ended up deciding to lash out and have a couple of nights luxury for everyone to recouperate for the next part of our adventures.
5 Star Sails in the Desert.
I feel soooo clean now!

Tuesday 13/7/2010 Len Beadell's Tree to Docker River

(Len Beadell's Tree to Docker River)
Woke at 0600hrs to the sound of birds. The coals were still hot and the fire stoked.
It must have been at least 5C again last night, very mild.
Everyone is in good spirits again.
Jordan and Jack have been having fun taking it in turns to start the car of a morning to warm it up. Left at 0750hrs.

The car has been great. It's handled everything well.
Col had fun with a bumpier, rockier track today. Surprisingly the track between the Gunbarrel and the Heather Highway was even rougher. Nothing too bad though.

Jordan got the surprise of her life when Col offered for her to have a go driving.

She did so well. Drove at 40km/hr changing gears and only stalling once. Great first lesson. Well! What were the chances of a vehicle passing us out here in the middle of the Gibson, and a police car at that! We all happily waved at each other and Jordan continued her driving lesson. :)

The graded section of the Heather Highway is wide and smooth and like a rollercoaster, but the Great Central Road is corrugated before Warburton and needs regrading.

We arrived there at 1100hrs and toured the art gallery. They were in the process of digitally cataloging the entire collection. Bought some music sticks for our Jet minders the Pockrans.

A smooth run from Warburton to Giles Weather Station, 80km/hr, arriving at 1530hrs. We stopped for lunch on the way, saw 3 camels, about 50 burnt out cars and a Swedish pushbike rider who wanted us to tell him where he was.

Had to put our watches forward to 1700hrs at Giles.

Jack spotted a dingo at the station and the kids tried to pat it but it was quite flighty and took off.

Len Beadell's grader is here. The office was open and we had a look around but noone was about.

We were blown away by the fantastic specticle of the sunset on ranges coming in to the NT. Wow!

Setting up camp at Docker River at 1800hrs NT time (1630hrs SA time). There were Aboriginal children playing up on the hill. Jordan wanted to visit them. Jack wouldn't go with her, so I did, but they were called away into a car before we got there. Jack saw another dingo and just suddenly took off chasing it?

Jordan now plans to save up for a car.
Funny, but the river bed is actually about 1km to the east of here.